1986 chevy truck conversion

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1986 chevy truck conversion

Postby mansura36 » Thu Feb 16, 2006 3:36 am

ok i know it is an old truck but, it was my dad and he passed away a year and 6 months ago, so it is special to me. i have installed a new compressor,dryer,evaporator and condenser(r-12 factory type), i have added 6 oz. of oil split among compressor,evap and dryer.(yes i flushed the lines). i have vacuumed for 3 hours...no leaks after 2 hours of checking gauges....(i also installed a white orfice tube)...learned all of this from just reading on this forum....should i do anything else before i start adding 134a....and will it cool ok on this truck...and can anyone point me in the right direction of how much 134 it would take(starting point?)...thanks and i hope i have not been a bother
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Postby Hal » Thu Feb 16, 2006 3:53 am

What type Chev is this? Pick up, Van etc? Look for a tag with the r12 amount, and start with about 85% of that charge. Make sure you have a new fan clutch or at least one no older than three years. Charge in the 85% and watch the high side pressures don't go above around 2.5 times the outside temp. Go slow and keep feeling the suction line and accumulator. Should get cold when you near the right charge. I am not sure, but I think that year ran anywhere from 2 to 2 1/2 pounds of R12 depending on model and if a van with rear air, will be more.
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86 chevy truck

Postby mansura36 » Thu Feb 16, 2006 3:56 am

it is a standard cab c-20 3/4 ton pick-up truck...thanks for the info
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Postby iceman2555 » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:52 pm

This is a 44 oz system. Starting with app 80-85 % of the factory recharge amount is a great starting point. However, relying on pressures by themselves can lead to some serious compressor issues...esp with retro fits. One good method is to charge the system until the inlet and the outlet of the evap are the same temp. Using your fingers is a good test method.
The lubricant recharge rate is a bit low....the A6 is a 10 oz system and the R4 is an 8 oz system. One of the major causes of compressor failures is the lack of lubrication. Ensure that there is sufficient for your system. Add if necessary.
When the inlet and outlet temps are the same...the evap is flooded and this will ensure sufficient lubrication flow for you system.
If excessive pressures are encountered at this time, check your engine cooling system very throughly. Removal of refrigerant to lower pressures could result in a failed compressor.
Follow the advice concerning the fan clutch....if over 50k miles or over three years...replace the thing....better yet if the age is not known...replace it any way....good insurance.
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86 chevy truck....clutch acting funny...please help!!!!!!

Postby mansura36 » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:01 am

thanks hal and iceman........have one more question....when i run my a/c it cools good, but the clutch would not engage...so i thought it was my pressure switch...so i jumped it out...still nothing....so i very lightly taped on the front of the clutch and it engaged..but evertime i hook it up correct and the preesure gets right to come on still nothing and all i have to do is very lightly tape the front of the clutch and it engages?????????????........can yall help. i spilled a little ester oil on the clutch while puuting in the oil in the compressor could that be it?????
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Postby Tennessee_Timmy » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:25 am

Sounds like the air gap between the clutch and pulley may be too big. Use the search feature on this site and read some of the threads about how to adjust it and what gap to use. Good Luck :)
Good Luck 2 ya,
Timmy
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Postby Hal » Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:57 am

Is you replacement compressor New, Reman, or Used? If reman or used I would also check the clutch coil for at least 3 to 4 ohms. But if that checks out OK, follow Timmy's advice and have the clutch gap adjusted. You can rent/borrow the clutch removal/installer tools from Autozone if you don't want to buy your own. Don't try hitting the clutch with a hammer. You need the tool that will screw onto the center stud, then push it in as you tighten the outer nut. Maybe even an AC shop near you would do it, as it's failry easy on a truck (right on top)
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Postby iceman2555 » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:04 pm

Check the voltage supply to the clutch coil...should be +/- 1 battery volt. Sometimes the HPCO will do the same thing...since this was by passed.....next step would be the voltage supply.
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86 chevy truck...continued!!!!!

Postby mansura36 » Sun Feb 26, 2006 7:13 pm

sorry i have not posted a reply on the clutch matter.......been to busy(too many hours) at work.....i could not find a tool to rent or borrow so i bought one online(r-4,r-6,gm,installation/removal tool-by robinaire) is this the right one...i hope so and how much gap ....i will buy a set of feeler gauges if needed.....1986 chevy c-20 3/4 ton standard cab pick-up truck....r-4 compressor(reman),new condenser,new dryer,new evaporator ,lines flushed,new white(gm) orfice tube,ester100 oil 8 oz.(after amount i needed was told to me by this fine board),vacummed 3 hours held for 2 hours gauges never moved...also new santech adjustable clutch cycling switch(what to i set the low pressure cut-off at?......21 or more or less)....sorry for being so long winded i just want it right before the hot comes......(36 oz. r-134a) as this was fun having to tap the clutch with a plastic bottle to engage.....ohms are fine...voltage fine and with engine off and key on it will pull my screwdriver to it when coil engages(strong)....please help
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